ARCTIC'S BRIGHT NIGHTS
Summers in the Arctic are like a different world from the winters. From mid June until mid July; the sun never sets. Days are warmer and animals are out harvesting for the winter. The population of Bettles triples in summer, where natives from surrounding villages come to hang out with others, kayaking, berry picking, renovating and remodeling homes. Also during the early months of summer the mosquito season starts.... Got that bug shirt ready!
The first couple of days in Bettles were very warm. We would cycle to the river, hang out and watch the midnight sun disappearing for an hour behind the horizon, and then just come back again. While we had sunshine, in Fairbanks the smoke of the bush fires covered the entire city. It even reached us couple of days later and the entire sky was covered in smoke. Bettles airport turned to international very fast, where fire fight planes from all over the US were flying in. The three fire fighter planes that were on stand-by in case of any close fire contain a capacity of 800 gallons of water, filled in 15 seconds. The water travels 75 m/h to the main tank, as soon as the pilot touches the lake or river to collect water. Planes and helicopter always fly trough Bettles and fuel on their way up north.
The first couple of days in Bettles were very warm. We would cycle to the river, hang out and watch the midnight sun disappearing for an hour behind the horizon, and then just come back again. While we had sunshine, in Fairbanks the smoke of the bush fires covered the entire city. It even reached us couple of days later and the entire sky was covered in smoke. Bettles airport turned to international very fast, where fire fight planes from all over the US were flying in. The three fire fighter planes that were on stand-by in case of any close fire contain a capacity of 800 gallons of water, filled in 15 seconds. The water travels 75 m/h to the main tank, as soon as the pilot touches the lake or river to collect water. Planes and helicopter always fly trough Bettles and fuel on their way up north.
On July 4th was Chrisser’s funeral. The day before his friends (only guys) went to the cemetery to prepare the place where the ashes will be buried. In native culture only the guys do the preparation, whereas the women organize everything else at home. The next day in the morning we all gathered in the Tribal Hall to share a few memories and head to the cemetery. Pictures of Chrisser were everywhere and you could feel the love and sadness at the same time as the room was filled with friends and family. We watched great memories that friends and family shared on the Gilroy Expedition in mid-April. Afterwards, a moment was given to share any thought or memories. I felt a pull in my solar plexus and was meditating on Tonglen, giving and receiving emotional energy. A family member shared some funny moments of Chrisser, where people smiled and it balanced the heavy energy of the room. I found the strength to share a moment, the only conversation I had with Chrisser, where he showed me his snowmobile and explained how it is running. As I spoke, I felt the rising of emotion from my stomach to the throat. As an outsider who came two years ago to this place I felt welcomed by everyone, nothing is too much or too hard for the people up here. They live, gossip, drink, ride and die together. It was important to share that with the people of Bettles and Evansville. After the memorial in the Tribal Hall we headed to the cemetery. A few words were spoken and the casket with ashes was placed in the hole by Chrisser’s family. Line formed to throw earth on the casket. Tiers and sadness overwhelmed everyone once again. I took piece of earth touched it to my forehead, throat and heart. A bow to the body, which is the forehead; to the throat which is the speech; and the heart, where the mind is. A life is not only formed of a physical body, the speech is the gateway from the mind to the body, where actions are formed and memories created. That’s why it is sometimes so hard to let go of the physical form of someone because we tend to live in it most of our lives. Our emotions create clinging or aversion to something we like or dislike, and so we find ourselves circling from happiness to unhappiness and soon. Find the third side of the coin.
After the funeral people gathered to take part in the Triathlon Race that is taking place in Bettles every year. A team of three members is formed. Each member can choose if they would like to float, run or bike. I paired up with two other girls and signed up for biking. We called our team "Mother Russia". Very funny, as on 4th July Americans celebrate Independence Day and are not always in best terms with the Russians. By the time we got back from the cemetery, the girls felt tired and we decided not to run. My friend Hazel, was on fire and said she will be competing for "Mother Russia". I laughed so hard when I saw the team name on her back. I had no idea who else was running with her and thought she is just doing it to participate. The teams were driven to the river to take their place and start the race. Hazel was far back and I changed my cheering to: You go mamasita for Mother Filipino - motivating her even more. As soon as the member tabs its team mate the other person would start running. We were already expecting runners and the first member from team "Your Team Sucks TOO" tabbed his team mate to start the biking part. I was wondering where Hazel was and could see, she just left the river part. I was thinking she is probably too tired to do all the race by herself. People were tabbing their team mates and all the runners made it. Now we were waiting for the bikers, they are the one that determine who wins the race. As always the three guys from team "Your Team Sucks TOO" are on fire and in very good shape. I think they train all year long for this race. They made it first. Second, I see a guy on a bike. The bike didn't have any gears. I was the boyfriend of a girl who came to the funeral. I cheered him up, and asked for whom are you competing and he turn to show me his back. Hahahahhaha.... it was Mother Russia. LOL Laughing tiers!!!!
I had no idea how they formed and the runner was a teenage boy. Considering that Hazel was far back with floating I am still amazed how they pulled it off to the second place. I definitely own these people a bottle of votka for running for my team name. I told them I am going to be writing a long later to President Putin. Crazy Arctic People!!!!
Bettles is quiet a crazy place or maybe the people are crazy who made this place so addicting. Snowmobiles are ridden in the winter usually. One evening they took the snowmobiles to the river and drove it on the water. With so much daylight we always find something to do or hang out.
By end of September the trees change color and it is close to winter. With the rain the snow will fall as well. Within a week the tree leaves covered the entire ground. I have been going on hikes and rides with my little four legged friends. Timber, Rockie, Sally, Sierra and Noa have been following me everywhere.Timber is an Australian Blue Healer, who always is seeking attention. He would ride on top of the cars and always sleep in my room on my bed. If Rockie or Sierra were already in the room on the bed he would just push them away.
Rockie is a mix of German shepherd and rottweiler. Very protective and loyal dog, who was always looking out for me. When his owner left the village for couple of weeks he left him with his uncle but he would always follow me and stay with me. One day he got into some old homes and came back smelling bad. I was thinking to myself I need to give this dog a bath but he is quiet big and strong. He didn't like it but he was calm and didn't mind. One day he stuck all day around for a Compassion Puja - Meditation. Sally is a German shepherd who loves to play with sticks. I would play with her for hours and she would never be tired. Even if I go to visit my friends she would wait for me. As soon as I am heading back home she would try to grab on to my foot, showing me that she is upset. She would never leave like Rockie. I am not sure about Sierra's breed but she is the most active squirrel hunter. When you tell her and Rockie: Go Look!, they would look for squirrels and when they find one on the tree they would start breaking the low branches of the trees. Noa is a huskie, who has always been following me when I take him on walks or runs. Even in winters he would always be with the guests and make sure they were safe. I always enjoy having these little Buddhas of love and compassion with me. We would hike or bike at least 10 miles a day if the weather was nice.
Considering that the bears were still active, I would never bring any bear spray or weapons. I knew I am safe with these dogs. We would frequently see bears wondering in the village looking for food. The elders said that this was a harsh season for the bears because the blue berries were gone so fast because of no rain in June.
Rockie is a mix of German shepherd and rottweiler. Very protective and loyal dog, who was always looking out for me. When his owner left the village for couple of weeks he left him with his uncle but he would always follow me and stay with me. One day he got into some old homes and came back smelling bad. I was thinking to myself I need to give this dog a bath but he is quiet big and strong. He didn't like it but he was calm and didn't mind. One day he stuck all day around for a Compassion Puja - Meditation. Sally is a German shepherd who loves to play with sticks. I would play with her for hours and she would never be tired. Even if I go to visit my friends she would wait for me. As soon as I am heading back home she would try to grab on to my foot, showing me that she is upset. She would never leave like Rockie. I am not sure about Sierra's breed but she is the most active squirrel hunter. When you tell her and Rockie: Go Look!, they would look for squirrels and when they find one on the tree they would start breaking the low branches of the trees. Noa is a huskie, who has always been following me when I take him on walks or runs. Even in winters he would always be with the guests and make sure they were safe. I always enjoy having these little Buddhas of love and compassion with me. We would hike or bike at least 10 miles a day if the weather was nice.
Considering that the bears were still active, I would never bring any bear spray or weapons. I knew I am safe with these dogs. We would frequently see bears wondering in the village looking for food. The elders said that this was a harsh season for the bears because the blue berries were gone so fast because of no rain in June.
Flying in Alaska during the summer is just amazing. My friend’s grandfather lives on a lake by himself for more than 20 years. When his wife passed away he said he was waiting for Olga to come from Siberia to take care of him. So one day, my friends started joking: Hey we are going to this lake, do you wanna go as well? I was Hell Yeah! Then they told me: But you have to be Olga. So I learned about Olga. We organized the trip and six of us flew to the Iniakuk Lake, where my friend’s grandfather lived. I was practicing my Russian accent all week long. The lake is surrounded by mountains. It is just beautiful and peaceful. We finally landed and Paul heard already the plane and walked to the shore to greet us. He knew everyone, expect me. His son approached and greeted him: Hi dad, I brought Olga from Siberia. Hahaha… Oh La La!!! His face lit up like a Christmas tree. I shook his hand and introduced myself as Olga, with the strongest Russian accent. Everyone was in tears laughing. Of course, we told Paul the truth very shortly. He invited us in his home, which is running on solar panels. As I already have heard, he started telling us stories from back in the days, when he was a bush pilot. One time he landed the plane on the river during the winter and the ice broke and his plane sunk. He spent three days in the cold until someone came and found him. His son and grandson organized around the house. I cleaned the kitchen and made beer bread for everyone. At the same time a football game started and Paul joined me in the kitchen. We ate beer bread and I listened to his stories about the Arctic and his life. He would say: “I was a pilot and owned couple of planes, but I was always flat broke. One day I landed on the lake and forgot the tie my plane, in an hour I had to walk across the lake to pull it back. I actually happened twice. You know here I see the last person in September and then again in February they fly me food and supplies up. Last year my heater broke and it was -60F. I had to call in Bettles for someone to send anyone up here to fix it. If I knew you guys are coming I would brush my hair. “
I was just amazed by his living style and laughed a lot about his jokes. He is about 85 years old, happy and loving person. He asked me if we really had to leave that day back to Bettles, and I am glad we did because it snowed the next day. It was a great trip and a lot of wise words from Paul which I will never forget.
I was just amazed by his living style and laughed a lot about his jokes. He is about 85 years old, happy and loving person. He asked me if we really had to leave that day back to Bettles, and I am glad we did because it snowed the next day. It was a great trip and a lot of wise words from Paul which I will never forget.
Northern lights are something that amazes me about our planet. Having warm drinks and watching them is the most peaceful meditation someone can wish for. I am still trying to figure out if it is Alaska or the Arctic that fascinates me. Will find out very soon in Lapland.
